Life is a Cherry

Growing season is in full swing, and yesterday I purchased a bunch of fresh fruit: peaches, plums, watermelon, and a favorite of mine, Rainier cherries. Since cherry is a common descriptor of red wine, I’m interested in getting better aquatinted with this tasty fruit. Sure, I’ve eaten cherries all my life, but yesterday I wondered whether or not I’d ever really tasted them. Probably not, I decided, so now my goal is to slow down and take time to truly taste the foods I’m eating.

Popping a cherry in my mouth, I bite down to split open the fruit and remove the seed. The fleshy pulp crunches as I chew, and a refreshing sweetness floods my tastebuds. The combination of tart and sweet is irresistible, and before I know what’s happened, I’ve swallowed the cherry.

So I try another. This time I split the cherry in half, then smell the pulp inside. To my nose, it smells slightly sweet but mostly like wet grass. I’ve heard that 90% of taste is also about smell, yet as I place the fruit in my mouth, I’m still a little surprised not to taste grass. Instead, the cherry comes alive with juicy sweetness, and the acid makes my mouth water. After I swallow, a pleasant tanginess lingers in my mouth. I keep eating cherries until I’ve finished a hand full.

After today’s cherry tasting experiment, I have a better understanding of the sensory experience of cherries. But I’m sure each variety has its own subtle flavor profile. There are wild cherries, choke cherries, sour cherries, and even black cherries. Also, when using descriptors for wine, I’d like to know the difference between fresh and processed cherries, like cherry jam, candied cherries, even baked cherry pie. This could get interesting . . . and tasty!

Blackberry Blossoms

Early this morning while walking my dogs, a wild blackberry bush in full bloom caught my eye. Stepping into the weeds off the dirt road for a closer look, I admired the delicate pink blossoms growing among its thorny mesh of canes. I remember from previous years that these blooms don’t last long. In a few days, the pink petals will curl back allowing fruit to swell from its many ovaries. Then in a few weeks, the young fruit will change from light green to red, and then finally to a rich black pigment, ripe for picking.

With my dogs panting from the heat, I decided to pause and sit under a nearby tree, pulling out my sketchbook to pass the time. A gentle breeze swayed the branches above, dancing sunlight across the page where I painted the blackberry bush.

The blackberry is one of my favorite fruits. Luckily, wild berries are in abundance along creek beds in Sonoma County. Later this summer I’ll pick these aromatic beauties to top off yogurt, breakfast cereal, ice cream, and to make filling for pies. If I can find enough berries, I’ll even make blackberry jam. I remember when I was young and ambitiously picked berries along a creek behind our family’s house. By days end, grocery bags of fruit lined the walls of our kitchen, bewildering my mother. “What to do with it all?” she asked.

Then it was suggested we make jelly and the project began. We heated, mashed and stirred the berries into syrup, and copious amounts of sugar and pectin thickened it hard, even to the point of being difficult to spread on toast. But despite its thickness, the finished jelly tasted like summer and we ate it profusely. We loaded it on breakfast biscuits and accompanied it with peanut butter on bread. The one batch happily lasted for years. We loved it not only because it tasted good but because of the care we put into making it.

I knew it was time to finish sketching when I felt the tongues of two restless dogs licking my feet. I obliged and packed up my gear, heading home for a cool drink and to search for jelly jars, hopefully still packed away in the garage and waiting for use.

Preparing my Garden’s Soil for Planting

It’s been ten years since we last planted a vegetable garden in a large corner of our back yard. Unknown to visitors ever since, a well-tended bed once teeming with life was hidden there under a mountain of weeds. Each year come spring, I’d mow the area along with the adjacent lawn, carefully avoiding the work that lay beneath. I knew that someday, before I could again plant, I would have to dig up the bed and lay poultry wire to keep rodents out.

There are few things more satisfying than organic fruits and vegetables, slow ripened in our own garden and picked fresh. This year, we’d been remembering how rewarding it can be to grow our own food. So we asked ourselves, why wait any longer to grow another garden?  I knew I had a couple of weeks of picking, digging, and shoveling ahead of me and I wasn’t looking forward to it. My wife had caught the bug, and was excited to create beds of cut flowers. In the end, our yearning for beauty and our taste buds won out.

In the old veggie patch, I started by breaking up soil with a pickaxe, then used a shovel to remove layers of top soil, sand, and compost, each with its own distinctive color. All along, I’d been working our garden without realizing it. Neighbors had given me soil years ago, later I put down extra sand from laying our patio, and more recently, I’d tossed in a good supply of accumulated compost. Since the earth on our property consists of dense clay, these amendments would combine to make perfect soil for planting.

While digging, earth worms wiggled out of loose soil, and roly-polies and lady bugs crawled amongst the doomed weeds. The soothing aroma of lavender flowers wafted from a nearby plant. While I took breaks from shoveling, I watched butterflies, damselflies, and dragonflies buzzing past, sometimes landing on my idle tools. My thoughts wandered to consider the honeyed flesh of cantaloupes, the tart sweetness of tomatoes, and the tang of fresh cut herbs. Imagining the crop to come motivated me to again pick up that shovel and keep turning soil.

 

Vineyard Workers Tilling a Cover Crop

While preparing my morning coffee, I was distracted by a motorized hum from the vineyard behind our house. Looking through the kitchen window, I spotted a dust cloud drifting skyward from the far hill. Then an orange tractor emerged from the cloud, rocking its way through the trellised vines. As I watched, tall cover crops of legumes, clover, vetch, and wild radish vanished under the tractor’s belly, leaving only chocolate colored earth behind.

Thinking on my toes, I reached for my art bag, leaving the coffee untouched on the counter. I walked across the field between our house and the vineyard, carefully avoiding the sticky weeds so prevalent at this time of year.

At the bottom of the hill, a white truck pulled up at the same time as the tractor came to a halt. The smell of fresh cut vegetation and moist soil filled the air. I asked the two men if they were tilling the cover crop. The truck driver replied in a thick Spanish accent, “Yes, but only the upper vineyard.” He added that the lower vineyard would soon be removed due to difficulty in growing Cabernet grapes in this soil.

After thanking the men, I walked back into the field and sketched them as they cleaned the tractor and packed up gear. With the overgrown cover crop now tilled into the soil, the vineyard looked trimmed and tidy. The trellised vines arched their way along the hill in rows, and I marveled at how quickly they’d grown. What had been buds just a few weeks ago, now canopied several feet in each direction, and with leaves soaking up the sun’s rays, looked ready to flower.

Healdsburg’s Farmers Market

Each year, Healdsburg’s Farmers Market opens on the first Saturday in May. Regardless of weather, it’s an early indicator that summer has arrived and our rainy season is over, until October.

I hopped off my bike and parked near the twin footbridges crossing Foss Creek. Stepping into the canopied market, I spotted everything from sausage, cheeses, and pork tamales, to plenty of colorful vegetables. Baskets overflowed with leafy greens, along with fava beans, carrots, asparagus, and fresh cut flowers. Off to one side, pots of tomato, pepper, and strawberry plants were available for the home gardener.

After making the rounds, I sat on a shady bench near the creek. The cool breeze of early morning had now settled into a warm stillness, persuading me to remove my jacket. As I reached for my backpack, its contents of colored pencils, sketchbooks, paints, and brushes spilled on the ground, causing me alarm, but no damage. After dusting off these supplies, I began to sketch.

Public places, like this market, are challenging for me to draw because people often move too fast to capture on paper. Looking into the crowds, I search for people lost in conversation so they stay put for a longer period of time. Sometimes when I start a drawing and the person moves away, I’ll look for another person in approximately the same position, and combine the two. And in this drawing, the static background of canopies, umbrellas, and food stands provides an anchor, and also reflects the festive atmosphere of the morning.

An hour passed when my wife Marilyn and her friend Sarah stopped by to say hello, with baskets full of fava beans, kale, and alstroemaria flowers. Marilyn mentioned the tomato plants at the far side of the market and how excited she is about our garden. I agreed, I can’t wait to plant a kitchen garden in our back yard this year. It’s been years since we’ve done so.

After finishing my drawing, I packed up my art supplies and rode home, excitement building at the thought of breaking out the dusty gardening tools to plant our very own vegetable garden.

Pear Tree and the Vineyard in Spring

After feeling cooped up over the past week, I finally experienced a break from both work and wet weather. Setting out from the house, I leashed our two Australian Shepherd dogs and stepped into the spring sunshine. In the open area out back, we walked about a quarter mile around a pond and toward a vineyard, arriving at the pear tree I painted last winter and autumn. There in the shade, I set up a sketching camp with folding chair, pencils, paints, and my handmade sketchbook. The dogs roamed the open field, poking noses down gopher holes, sniffing out snakes, rabbits, and rodents, and occasionally barking and chasing each other about.

Soon after set up, my wife Marilyn arrived with her guitar and a snack of dried fruit, nuts, and bottles of water. She sat in the nearby grass, and while I sketched, practiced tunes by Neko Case, George Harrison, and Elvis Costello.

Much had changed since winter. The northward moving sun had warmed up the earth, and saffron-gold California poppies replaced yellow mustard. Most grasses had morphed from green to yellow, orange, and dusty purple. The pear tree, recently all bare branches, was covered in fluffy white “popcorn ball” blossoms that attract bees. In the distance, a cover crop had grown tall amongst the vines pruned in February, and several wooden vine posts now sagged from the weight of winter rains.

As I began to draw, I discovered that my usual method of starting my sketch in ink wouldn’t be the best approach this time. The pear blossoms needed to be kept white, and with my transparent watercolors, I’d have to work around them. After laying out a sketch in soft pencil, I painted around the blossoms in blue, rose, violet, and green, then filled in the trunk and branches, saving the remaining landscape for last.

Two hours passed and I stood to stretch my legs. Setting my sketchbook on the chair, I walked across the field toward the vineyard and paused with the sensation that I’d walked right into my painting. I remembered my brush forming on paper the plants and trees surrounding me, and the two dimensional world I’d been sketching now expanded to three. With heightened senses, I smelled spicy grasses and sweet flower fragrance, watched small insects flying all about, and everything felt alive, active, almost fluid.

After a few moments, I settled back to the reality of my surroundings and walked back to my chair. As I returned to painting, I hoped to capture some of that heightened awareness. Although the experience in the field lasted only a few moments, the feeling stayed with me the entire afternoon. With the dogs now resting and panting at our feet, I put the finishing touches on my painting while Marilyn continued to play guitar in the afternoon sun.

Vineyard Cover Crops

Vineyard_Cover_Crop_s

 

Every winter, while the grape vines are dormant, wild grasses and flowers awaken and thrive in the chilly, wet environment. In the earlier part of winter, the grasses grow in many shades of green, but beginning in late January, mustard flowers paint the hills bright yellow, in stark contrast to the dark brown vines. In February, wild radish appears with its varied soft pinks, whites and purple blooms and soon after, chamomile flowers blanket the landscape in snowy white.

Some of these wild plants are cultivated as vineyard cover crops, and contribute organic matter, nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil. They also help contain soil erosion from the heavy winter rains, and provide a habitat for beneficial insects and birds such as ladybugs, spiders, owls, and other critters. Cover crops often consist of grains like barley and oats, legumes such as peas and bell beans, as well as mustard, vetch, clover, chamomile, and wild radish.

In late spring, cover crops are often tilled into the soil to provide nourishing organic matter, and to eliminate interference with budding grape vines.

Pedroncelli Winery, Barrel Tasting Weekend

Barrel Tasting is one of Sonoma County’s most popular annual wine events and also my favorite. On the first two weekends in March, more than 20,000 tasters converge upon Healdsburg and the surrounding area to sample young wines right out of the barrels where they age. The weekends also provide the opportunity to purchase wine “futures” on upcoming releases. The discounts are hard to pass up, and many limited-release wines sell out before they’re even bottled.

What I appreciate most about Barrel Tasting is that winemakers, cellar masters and winery owners are available to answer questions, providing an insider’s view of the winemaking world not often available to the public.

On the first Saturday morning, I drove out Canyon Road from Geyserville toward Pedroncelli Winery. After passing through a long stretch of moss covered oaks, the view that opened before me confirmed my choice of location. Before me, leafless rows of knotted vines followed the curves of the hilly landscape, seeming to flow like waves into the valley below.

When I reached the Pedroncelli sign, I turned left to park beside a vineyard. As I walked up to the winery, Family member Ed St. John greeted me and several other newly-arrived visitors, handing each of us a tasting glass. Pointing out the barrel room, Ed invited us to first join him on a mini tour of the grounds while sharing a bit of winery history.

During Prohibition, the John Pedroncelli family purchased this then-defunct winery. At that time, commercial winemaking was illegal, and Mr. Pedroncelli planned to sell grapes to home winemakers. Long after repeal, a few decades later, John’s winemaker son—also named John—joined his father, and a few years later, his brother Jim became sales manager. In the early 1960s, the brothers bought their dad out. Fifty years later, and with the help of third, and now fourth generation Pedroncellis, the winery continues as family owned.

Pedroncelli-Winery-Barrel-Tasting_s2

At the tour’s end, our group filtered into the barrel room for tasting. Before indulging my taste buds, I wanted a sketch of the action. We all watched as octagenarian John Pedroncelli extracted wine from the barrel. To do this, he used a wine thief, a long glass tube tapered at one end, with an opening at each end. John lowered the tapered end into the barrel and then covered the top opening with his thumb to hold the wine in the glass tube. Placing the tube inside the taster’s glass, he released his thumb, allowing the inky-red liquid to flow into the glass. It’s quite a treat to watch.

After about an hour, there was a break in the crowd, so I set down my sketch pad and introduced myself to John. He poured me a sample of garnet-colored liquid from the barrel, describing it as a 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with Cabernet Franc. I swirled my glass to draw air into the wine and thereby release its aromas. The wine tasted full-bodied and had a velvety texture in my mouth. I wondered how long the wine had aged in the barrel, and I asked John if it would soon be bottled. He told me it had been aging for 12 months, and would spend another month or two in the barrel before bottling and release.

Remembering the vineyard I’d parked beside, I asked if those grapes had been used to make the wine I was tasting, and John stated that those vines were 100-year-old Mother Clone Zinfandel. The Cabernet grapes, he said, were located a couple miles down the road in the Valley.

Cellar Master Polo Cano then arrived, and John introduced us. I asked Polo about his responsibilities, and was impressed by their scope, which consists of oversight of all wine production from crush pad to bottle. One of his recent jobs had been the installation of two vineyard owl houses. Owls are great hunters of the mice and gophers that feed on vineyard roots. Polo was pleased to report that one of the houses was already occupied.

Noticing that the day was fleeting, I asked for advice on a good vantage point for sketching. John and Polo both agreed that the two small hills behind the winery provided the best views. Thanking them both, I headed out to sketch.

Outside the barrel room, I was pleasantly greeted by my wife Marilyn, who met me with a smile and a picnic basket. She’d arrived an hour earlier to relax and enjoy the view from the bocce ball courts. Together we climbed the hill behind the winery, wading through chamomile flowers used as a vineyard cover crop, and found a place to sit in the shade of an oak.

While lunching on goat cheese, crackers, and delicate slices of roast turkey, we enjoyed the unseasonably warm temperatures and watched the bees buzz. With much of Dry Creek Valley visible in the near distance, we listened to laughing tasters make their way in and out of the winery below. After savoring a square of chocolate, I sketched the winery while a ladybug crawled across my sketchpad.

With a full day of sketching, picnicking, and wine tasting behind me, I picked up a bottle of Mother Clone Zinfandel from the tasting room and Marilyn and I headed home with smiles on our faces.